Hey everyone! So I know I haven’t written in a while but I have a lot to tell you all about my recent trip to Puerto Escondido! (If you don’t have at least 10 minutes to devote to this post, I suggest coming back later haha.)
So last week, we had a 4 day weekend for the Dia de Independencia which was on Thursday night. Most of my colleagues were being lame for some reason or another, so it just ended up being me and my friend, Veronika (tall, blonde and Slovakian) who made the 11 hour trek to Puerto. On Wednesday night, we took the 1:30 am bus to Oaxaca. We did this because we had to catch a smaller bus called a collectivo from Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido and we wanted to make the most of our first day on the beach. Travelling in the middle of the night is never dull…in the Tehuacan bus station, there was this lady cradling a plastic baby and as hard as I tried, I could NOT stop staring. There was also this Mexican guy who grew up in New Orleans who wouldn’t stop talking to us. Um, hello, its 1:30 am, man, shut up!
Anyway, we arrived in Oaxaca without any problems and then had to walk to the smaller station for the collectivo. The first one we found wasn’t leaving until 8:30 (it was about 6 at the time) which would put a damper in our day, but fortunately, we found another station that had a bus leaving at 6:30 which was perfect! The collectivos are basically like little vans that fit about 12 people (completely packed) and although Veronika’s guide book proclaimed them to be “vomit-inducing,” we chose this route anyway because it is 6 hours shorter and significantly cheaper. For the first, say, 4 hours of the ride, we were sitting pretty. Although the head of the lady sitting to the right of me was hovering uncomfortably close to my own and I had to do a severe should pop to get her to move, the view outside the van was spectacular. We drove on winding roads of the Sierra Madre Del Sur mountain range and went through several teeny tiny Mexican villages. (Even though these villages had plenty of little Comedors and banos that we could have stopped at, when we asked to use the bathroom, instead of waiting until the next actual toilet, the driver pulled over and had us pee on the side of the mountain! Grass in the ass!)
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| My shoes after the "bano" |
Anyway, it’s crazy to me that people live up in the mountains, so secluded from real civilization! There were donkeys, chickens and cows galore, so I was basically staring at the window, taking it all in, for most of the ride. However, when we had been driving for about 2/3 of the way, something (not sure what) happened to the driver that caused him to pick up the speed by (appx.) tenfold and not lift his foot off the gas as we rounded sharp corners and flew over bumps. I thought that either A) we were going to die or B) I was going to hurl. Thank G neither occurred.
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| View from the collectivo |
When we finally arrived in Puerto Escondido, we took a taxi to our hostel, which was on the quieter, further end of the long stretch of beach. It was a big, stone building with hammocks and lots of fun art, and the woman who owned it was absolutely the sweetest (and she had a cute Argentinian husband and baby too!) They were anthropologists who had just opened this hostel a few months ago so they were very accommodating. After we got settled in our room, we explored the little beach near our house and ate lunch. I got my first Mexican margarita(!!!) which prompted me to pass the hell out on the beach for several hours. Win.
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| Our hostel! |
After soaking up some sun, we went back to the hostel, showered and got read y for the Dia de Independencia! For the Mexican Day of Independence, the whole town gets together at the center which is decorated really nicely with Mexican colors and whatnot, and they shut down the streets to put in Carnival rides and food stands and vendors and it is relaly, really cool.

There was some sort of ceremony involving soldiers and also these 5 beautifully dressed girls (one of whom sang what I assume to be the Mexican national anthem which had wayyyy too many verses) and of which I only understood about half. As all of the commotion was going on, I proceeded to purchase a mustache, a Mexican flag and a Corona. Can you say authentic? The actual “grita” happened at 11:00 and was when the mayor (?) of the city took the mic and yelled “Viva this!” and “Viva that” and we got super into it…I didn’t want it to end! More “Vivas!” “Viva Tequila!” “Viva Cerveza!” “Viva Tacos!” “Viva Salsa!” We could have gone on for ages.

After the grita, I got a little snack (corn on a stick on which they put mayo, cheese, chile, lime and salsa….uhhh-mazing) and we went to this bar near our hostel that was supposedly having a little party. It was a sick bar: right on the beach with a lot of space and a really cute band, but the party was a little lackluster. I had a decent time (danced salsa with an older man, I just can’t say no!) but we were tuckered out from the day, so we returned to the hostel and passed the eff out.
The next day, we awoke to the sweet sound (not) of roosters crowing and prepared for a day of serious beach-hopping. Puerto Escondido is a regular city, but it has a huge stretch of beach, each with a different feel. The one near us was quiet with some surfers and as you walk toward the city, it gets more and more crowded (and pricey) and then you finally reach the Mexican area of the beach (which smells strongly of fish and has more trash that is ideal.) We hung out on the Playa Principal for a while ordering margs and chilling in the sun. However, when we went to get up and move to a different beach, I was walking on the sand to get my shoes when I started feeling super dizzy and as if I couldn’t stand. I got kind of scared and told Veronika that I didn’t think I was OK. We walked to the nearest restaurant where I scarfed a burrito and more than a liter of water. I hadn’t realized that it was almost 2:30 and I hadn’t eaten or drank anything other than a margarita. Not a good idea in the hot, Mexican sun! Luckily, after sustenance, I was back in business. We walked to another section of the city where we found this cove-like beach which was really cool and different and hung out there for quite a while.



Puerto was definitely touristy. I could hear people speaking English all over the place and there were actually a bunch of Israelies in the city, which was interesting. For dinner, we ate at a restaurant right on the beach which was awesome. We treated ourselves to a nice meal (we deserve it!) of huachignanga (red snapper, local in Puerto) and Auga de Sandia (watermelon drink which was incredible). Needless to say, we were stuffed! After dinner, we began the looong walk back to our hostel. By this time, it was pretty dark and as we started getting closer to our place, the less lights there were. We thought we were on the right track, but every time we reached a corner we thought was going to be ours, it wasn’t. I started to freak out a little bit and have flashbacks of the Florence monastery fiasco (Elise and Andrea, you know what I’m talking about) and after we had been wandering aimlessly in the dark for about a half-hour, we saw the highway and decided to make a bee-line for the road to hail a taxi. Definitely a good call; we were still a good 12 minutes away from the hostel and clearly lost. Crisis averted!
Saturday, we decided to go to Mazunte, a town about 45 minutes away from Puerto that has a Turtle Protection Center that we were interested in seeing. We caught the a bus to a cross-street where we had to catch this smaller form of public transporation that they use in Puerto and the surrounding towns. It is basically a pick-up trick with a wooden base set on the back to sit on, covered with a blue or red tarp.

The picture (above) sort of gives you an idea of what it is like. Essentially, you are sitting outside and have to hang out for dear life at some times. Great fun! Anwyay, we got to Mazunte and checked out the Turtle Protection Center. Apparently Mexico just started protecting their precious tortugas in 1990, so they were kind of slow to jump on the bandwagon, but better late than never! There were a lot of different types of turtles at the center and each was cuter and more fun than the next. It is amazing that the little babies who are about the size of your palm grow up to be the giant sea turtles that everyone knows and loves! Oh, nature.
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| Turtles doin' the dirty? |
After the center, we chilled at a beach in Mazunte (not until after I got to have my first scuffle with a Mexican! This girl who could have been around 14 years old tried to sell me these disgusting, cold taquitos. I basically sent them back and told her I wasn’t paying. Heck yeahs!) On the beach, I got a proper meal (choriqueso torta and a coconut to drink!) and this guy came over to us and started telling us about a trip he was organizing to go see the sea turtles laying their eggs. This was something that I thought was possibly available near Mazunte but I wasn’t sure where or how to go about doing it. The guy was charging 350 pesos for transporation and access to the beach where the turtles were. However, after a few more minutes of talking, we learned that it was possible to get to the beach, La Escobilla, via public transportation and then simply pay 100 pesos for access to the beach. That seemed more do-able for us, so at 5:45, we headed off to see some turtles. When we got to La Escobilla, there were soldiers there who made us go inside and explain ourselves and why we were there. I guess that usually, people travel in organized groups to this area, but we explained that we were just extremely adventurous girls who want to see some tortugas! They ended up letting us in for free, which ruled, but honestly, I would have paid 100 pesos or more to see what we saw. It was absolutely breath-taking.The mama sea turtles were coming up from the ocean and digging holes to lay their eggs in. According to this nice man with a glass eye who worked with the turtles, there was about 1000 turtles that night, and two nights ago, there had been 100,000. It was unbelievable!
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| BFFs |
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| It's impossible to tell the magnitude, but this gives an idea |
There were even some little babies trying to make their way to the ocean. I wanted to badly to help them (it seemed so easy! Just pick them up! Toss them in!) but if you do that, they cant find their way back, so it isn’t really helping, is it?
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| Tortugitas |
It was probably one of the cooler things I've seen in my life. After the Tortuga frenzy, we went back to the hostel, made some dinner and shot the shit with some other travelers (German and Argentinian) then went to sleep, dreaming of tortugas.
On Sunday, we had to say goodbye to Puerto and begin the long journey back to Tehuacan. We stopped along the way in Oaxaca for some yummy ceviche and a small but fun shopping spree (they have a lot of cool street art unique to Oaxaca) and then finally (FINALLYYYY!) arrived back home in Tehuacan and (more quickly than I would have liked) back to the grind!
Thanks for reading, love and miss you all! And Viva Tortugas!