Gringos in the Big City

Mexico City is a GIANT city. Like, enormous. The traffic is out of control and trying to maneuver around without getting lost or confused is next to impossible. That being said, I think that for 3 Americans, 2 of whom spoke little to no Spanish and all 3 of whom were directionally challenged (sorry, Mama, but it was true!) we did pretty well. And the only time any of us got grumpy was when we were hungry (surprised? I think not.)
We took a bus from SLP to Mexico city and arrived on Tuesday night to check into our hotel.

The bus we took...HAHA sike! I wish!

Our bed and breakfast was absolutely a-dorable. With a capital "A." It was called the Red Tree House and had a tree that was covered in red christmas-tree lights out in the front. It was run by two gay men, one Mexican and one American, and was decorated in a way that only the gays can master. There was beautiful art in every nook and cranny, plants filled the outdoor terrace, and the atmosphere of the place was very homey but at the same time, very modern. They served hot breakfast each morning in addition to an spread of fruit, churros (or according to my mom, "chalupas,") croissants, yogurt, granola, coffee, juice, etc. All of the other guests were very nice, although most had that "rich American/European" feel. It was unlike any place I have been to in Mexico, but it was a nice change from my usual ghetto hotel and street food ways.

Day 1- Since we arrived pretty late on Tuesday, Wednesday was our first full day. We explored the city and went to the Palacio National which is in the Zocalo. Here is where there are many murals painted by Diego Rivera. They depict Mexican history and almost all of the important individuals, both good and bad, that had a hand in Mexico's turbulent past. We had a tourguide who honestly could have known all of these historical figures personally, that's how old he was. He was pretty knowledgable, though, and despite the fact that he could no longer pick up his feet when he walked, he shuffled around and gave us an eduacational description of the murals.

The political energy in Mexico is heating up right now, also, because elections are coming up in the summer. In the Zocalo, we witnessed the current-day communists getting together for a little rally, which was cool, if not slightly comical (there were maybe 5 people listening?)

In keeping with the political spirit, we also witnessed a rally about the overpopulation of Mexico (or something like that) which was apparently the fault of the USA.

The guy running this protest actually noticed my mom and I and began speaking in English. He told me that it was my fault that this country was overpopulated. He then told me, "Get out of this country!" When my jaw dropped to the ground, he corrected himself and said, "Oh, no I'm sorry....get out of this world!" Um, what?

Oh, before I go any further, let me just say that although we had a great first part of the first day, my dad got a migraine and ended up puking all over Mexico. Actually, that's an exaggeration, but he did retch in the Sears bathroom as well as the one in the Holiday Inn! (At least they were clean!) Unfortunately, he had to call it a day early, but luckily, that was the only bad day that any of us had.

After he left us, my mom and I continued walking around a little bit and we actually happened upon a street band that was pretty good. We stopped to listen for a few minutes, when I realized that there was something different about this band...then I finally put my finger on it....the band members were all blind!!!

Rockin' out, Stevie Wonder style.

We also got the chance to walk through the center a little bit more, see the Angel of Independence and witness some crazy Mexican teens and kids getting soaked in a fountain. After picking up some falafel for dinner, our feet were telling us that it was time to cab it back to the B&B, and so that was exactly what we did.

Some native ritual going on in the center

Angel of Independence (or according to my mom...liberty or freedom or one of those things)

Crazy Mexicans!

Day 2- We decided to go to the Bosque de Chapultapec and to go up to the Castillo, which is the National history museum of Mexico. The forest is phenomenal, with millions of trees and several lakes and of course, the museums. It takes up a good portion of the city, so it is quite an endeavor. After arriving at the park, we took a little trolley thing up to the top of the castle. It is impressive as heck..(the castle, not the trolley.) It was originlly a military school (I think?) and is also where several important Mexican presidents lived.

The castillo

View from the top of the castle

Example of some of the cool relics in the museum

It was really cool, although it made us feel like we knew absolutley nothing about Mexican history, thus leading us to the Internet and guide books for information. I will take this opportunity to thank the Castillo de Chapultapec for forcing the Seigel-Dabrow family to learn something new!

After the castillo, we walked around the park a little bit, and my dad got his caricature! Only 40 pesos!! What a steal. After the park, we took the metro to the Casa de Frida Kahlo. Although we had taken the metro before, this time around was particlarly unpleasant. Not only was it as hot as an inferno and we were packed in there like little Mexican sardines, but the freakin' thing kept stopping and starting!! I started to internally panic...it is one of my fears to be stuck underground in a metro. Thank g, that didn't happen, but it was looking bleak for a minute there.

Frida's house was awesome. She was a very talented, although disturbed, woman, and the museum was beautifully organized.

Art at the museum

(No pictured were allowed inside the house.) After the museum, we went home and had a little nap (well, I did, at least) before heading out for dinner.

Day 3- In the morning, we had a tour planned to see the Jewish parts of Mexico city. Our tour consisted of my family and a group from Atlanta who were actually related to the tourguide's husband and were in DF to explore their family. The tourguide, Monica, was a sort of activist for preserving and renewing Judaism in Mexico City and was really awesome. She showed us a lot of different places where the Jews who came over from Europe and the Middle East at the turn of the century met, lived, celebrated and prayed. We learned that when they first arrived, the used a Protestant temple to have high holidays and that they are responsible for starting many flourishing businesses and banks (Duh, right?)  It was like looking at the city through Jew-colored glasses!

Monica also showed us two synagogues: one Sephardic and one Ashkanazic. Absolutely beautiful!

 

The inside of the Ashkanazic Synagogue

The outside of the Sephardic Synagogue

 

 

 

 













The tour was something that I had never done before, so it was really awesome and enlightening. Definitley a highlight of the trip. After the tour, we went to a pseudo-museum where we saw some more murals by famous Mexican painters, and then had lunch at an adorable place that was uber-Mexican. I had Chiles en Nogada!!

My favorite mural!!

After lunch, we decided that we were a little bit museumed out, so we metroed it to an artisan market. It was a constant battle between my dad wanting to spend money way too frivolously and my mom not wanting to spend any money at all, but I think that in the end, everyone made a few small-ish purchases and were very happy. Mexican markets/crafts are one of my favorite things, so it was a good time had by all. Then it was time for dinner and bed!

Day 4- Teotihuacan!! Although I had already been to the pyramids, my parents hadn't, and you really cannot leave Mexico City without traveling to see these spectacular ruins. We took the bus and, without a hitch, arrived at the pyramids.

View from the top!

Mama and I

Dad climbing to the top!!

We had an awesome time exploring the pyramids and haggling with the millions of Mexicans trying to make a buck. Of course, my dad was the perfect target. After climbing up the pyramid of the sun and moon and exploring the ancient temple, we took the bus back to town and decided to metro it back to the hotel by way of a park that was supposedly in our neighborhood. When we got on the metro, the sky was blue. 30 minutes later, however, when we emerged from the window-less underground, the sky was black and looked about ready to burst! We saught refuge in Sanborns for a beer (or 4) and then after the downpour, headed back to change for dinner.

Unfortunately, my parents had to jet back early on Sunday morning, as did I. It was so nice to have them visit me and I was sad to see them go. Until later!!



Parental visitation and beyond

Ok, I'll give you the bad news first: I got evicted.
Yep, evicted. You all could probably tell that the lady with whom I was living was a little bit crazy and bitchy, but I thought we had an understanding...I did my thing and she did her thing, we stayed out of each others' way and there was no problem. Apparently, I was wrong.

My parents were at my house; we were retrieving their things because we were about to depart to Mexico City, when the lunatic called me into her little tienda and basically told me that she didn't like that I had friends over (I RARELY have friends over, and when I do, I ask permission!!) and that since today was th 6th of the month, she wanted me out....today.

Regardless of whether the reason for evicting me was stupid or valid, who kicks a foreigner (or anyone for that matter!!) out onto the street that freakin day! I was extremely upset, but probably not as upset as my parents who, upon us leaving, had some choice words and hand gestures for her.

The most ironic thing? The bitch's name is Alegria. There was nothing happy about her!

Anyway, thank goodness I have a good friend who I am staying with now while I am looking for another place. It was pretty intense and shitty, but I really don't think I did anything wrong, so I am just going to chalk it up to cultural differences (?) and, I mean, which one of you can say you got evicted in Mexico? That's what I thought.

Now, for the good news. My parents and I had a great time in both San Luis Potosi and Mexico City. In SLP, I showed them the center and all of the different plazas and of course, introduced them to the best of Mexican food. Both of them were pleasantly surprised at how pretty this city is. We went to several museums, including the National Mask Museum which was awesome.

Woah, buddy.

Friends!

We also went to Las Villas, the huge outdoor market on Sunday morning. This is essentially like a flea market on steroids, so my dad loved it. He was made for Mexico...there is junk for sale everywhere you turn! We had a great time strolling the stalls, trying different foods and drinks, and we even saw some crazy stuff, like a real rhino foot!

Besides the fact that I didn't know any restaurants wouldn't be open late on a Sunday night and we had to drive around for a while before finding a place and the whole eviction thing, SLP was a hit. Now, it was off to DF!

(see next blog)

Haircut FIASCO

So, I went to get my hair cut yesterday at a place reccommended to me by a friend because it is cheap and good. Well, cheap, yes. Good, not so much.
As soon as I sat in the chair, I told the woman that I only wanted a trim. I have been growing my hair out, and it was pretty long so I only wanted about 1 inch off the bottom. She looked at my hair and told me that more than 1 inch was dry and bad and that she should do layers because it would be better. I told her that I didn't really want layers and that I wanted it to remain long. She basically said that it would be beautiful, took a chunk of my hair and cut off 4 inches without batting one of her fake eyelashes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I gasped or gagged or did something as she continued hacking at my long, gorgeous hair that took me forever to grow. As she was going at it, I said to Marsha, "This lady is CRAZY!" I guess she understood some English because, scissors still in hand, she says, "Siiii, estoy locaaaa!"

I was terrified.

After cutting essentially half of my hair off, she remembered that prior to the cut, I had asked if she did eyebrows. She said she was looking for her tweezers and then started coming at my face with an electric razor! The psycopath was about to  SHAVE MY EYEBROWS!!!!! I screamed at her, "NO NO NO! Do not touch me with those!"  Along with my hand in her face and my jumping up from the chair, I am pretty sure the message got accross. I mean, was she serious? She was goin to shave my eyebrows? Who does that??!?!!

I paid quickly and we left. NEVER to return again. After a good cry, shower and realization that my hair will grow, I am ok. However, lesson learned: a haircut for 25 pesos is not going to be a pleasant experience. You get what you pay for!

Twins, Waterfalls and Mamuts!

Hello all!

Greetings from sunny and hot Mexico (finally, I can say those words!!) This past weekend, my friends, Laura and Renee came to visit me from Miami and we had a great time! They were my first USA visitors, so I was really excited to show them everything that rules about Mexico, and they loved it all.

I picked them up from the bus station on Thursday night (their bus was, of course, an hour late, but that is typical with the Mexican transit system.) They were exhasted and starving, so our first stop was, obviously, the taco puestos in the park near my house. I ordered them a spread and once they got over the surprise at how different real Mexican food is from "Mexican" food in the States, we at the s*** out of some tacos!!

On Friday, I had taken the day off of work, so we spent the entire day walking around the city. There are a bunch of plazas to see, churches and stores to visit, and we went down to the markets. We even discovered an area of the markets that I hadn't seen before, so it was really cool. (Some of the stuff they sell in the markets are disturbing and ambiguous but we just bee-lined past the gross stuff and enjoyed the cool stuff.)

Along the way, I introduced the girls to OXXO (the Mexican version of 7/11...buton steroids) and all the delicious treats that comes with it (namely Mamuts, little moon-pies with the mascot of a little mammoth!! So cute, and the mini ones are even cuter.)

Anyway, we were so pooped by all of the walking (dem Miami girls need some exercise!) that we didn't even do anything during the night. On Saturday, I had to work in the morning and then the twins met up with Marsha and me and we met Liliana at a restaurant near Tanga Manga park to eat. The restaurant was called El Canay and our reason for going was becase if you drink 5 beers, you get all of your food for free. Bring. It. On.

We ate and drank SOOOO much it was borderline disgusting. There was a mariachi band that played and before we knew it, we had been hanging out at El Canay for 4 or 5 hours!! It was so much fun; the waiter even made us pico de gallo just because we wanted it. Special treatment! We went home and took a little nappy nap (don't judge us!) and then went back out to go to a party with one of my students. It was pretty fun--we got to meet a lot of people and had some pie (like we needed more food...)

The house that we went to had an entire room of stuffed deer heads and bobcats and weird stuff like that because the members of the family are hunters. They told us that there was a puma they had just recently shot that was in the refrigerator!! But (thank g-d) they were mistaken and the puma was at the taxadermist. I was secretly relieved...it's hard enough for me to look at those stuffed animals, let alone one that is chilling in the fridge!

On Sunday (the best day), we woke up early and headed out to this hotel where I was told we could meet a tour to take us to some far-away waterfalls. It turns out, we were supposed to have organized this arrangement with the tour guide beforehand...so they were a little surprised at our visit. However, a few short phone calls and an hour later, we were boarding a camioneta with Beba and Ingrid, our tour-guides and new friends. We drove up in the mountains along windy roads for about 3 hours (twins were feeling a little sick, but luckily no one puked) until we reached the town of Tamasopo.

It was a typical little Mexican town....we, unsuspecting tourists, did not know what treat was waiting for us at the bottom of the hill. We walked down, down, down into the jungly, basically. This town is in a region of SLP called Huasteca, and everyone says it is as close to a jungle as Mexico can offer. And they were right. There was so much greenery and it was HOT!! Eventually, we reached this basin of water where a whole bunch of waterfalls were pouring into. We essentially climbed over and on the rocks of the waterfalls (not without slipping and almost dying several times, mind you.) There were rainbows and sunlight and it was absolutely magical. Although we were wearing bathing suits and life jackets, I don't think any of us were prepared for what came next.

This water basic lake thingy was not peaceful---quite the contrary. The current was strong as hell! There were two ropes strung across the middle of the basin that met in the middle in a knot that were meant to help swimmers not crash into the sides of the walls. Little did we know, we were those swimmers!! Ingrid and Bebe were basically like, OK Jump!!!! My adrenaline was rushing like crazy....I had no idea I was supposed to jump into this thing, and I wasn't sure if the water was going to be ice cold, either. I had no choice, so I jumped (gracefully, duh) and swam directly for that rope!

See the rope? Literally, our lifeline.

It was awesome! The twins followed and we swam to and fro in the basin. We even climbed up the rocks of the waterfall from the water and were standing in the rushing water!! It was so unbelievable cool. After a while of this, Bebe motioned for us to follow her...into this tiny hole in the wall. I was scared at first, until I realized that it opened up into a cave!! It was unreal. The formations were awesome and there were bats screeching at us from the top of the rocks! Also, because of some chemical reaction of the limestone and the water, the water was actually glowing blue. Glowing to the point where I even asked Ingrid if there were lights underneath! (She just laughed and didn't even merit my question with a response.)

It was one of the coolest things, ever, and we had a fabulous time. This location, we found out, was called La Puente de Dios, and after an hour or two, we got back in the car to go to Las Cascadas del Tamasopo.

Las Cascadas de Tamasopo

They were, also, absolutely gorgeous, and we had a great time exploring the area. (Reens couldn't stop saying that it was like Asia because there was a rope bridge and all these little waterfalls drop-offs and stuff. I was like yeah, it could be Asia, except for all the Mexicans!!)

We had an awesome lunch of pollo asada and papas con queso y crema y tortillas y salsa y agua de jamaica and it was just perfect. Needless to say, none of us wanted to go home, but magical days don't last forever. We boarded the camioneta and headed back to SLP.

Saying goodbye to Lolo and Reens was sad, but I hope it just encourages more of you to come visit me in this awesome country!!

Until next time!